The United States has established itself as one of the world’s most important denim exporters – trend wise. Denim is part of the country’s history as well as its lifestyle. Today, denim has exceeded its own barriers, as well as its market. There are no more limits for the classic indigo fabric. American brands have been fighting against international brands for their share in the market. Levi’s which is one of the most prestigious denim brands in the world has been working very hard to maintain its cache and reputation - in the American and international market. The company has been working really hard to compete with the local and European brands that have been dictating trends and getting market share. According to Levi’s CEO, “During the past several years, we have been transforming Levi Strauss & Co. to make the company more competitive. We have been executing a number of business turnaround strategies that have resulted in significant improvements in our performance”. Following a world-wide trend, Levi’s is also diversifying their offerings in order to gain market share and satisfy strong consumer demand for all things indigo. As Levi’s competitors have been doing lately, the company is successful shifting their focus to become one of the "global casual brands of the future."
The Levi’s come back was endorsed by one of the most popular television shows in the United States at the moment – Project Runway season 4. The Levi’s challenge was very creative, and has proved that there are no boundaries when designing a garment using the world famous fabric. “The 501® has been adopted and embraced by so many different cross sections of our culture. Each generation has made their own imprint on the 501®. The young and talented designers of Project Runway offer up a fresh perspective on the original jean that truly started it all,” offers Robert Cameron, Levi’s® Vice President of Marketing. The winning design was sold at the Levi’s website, and it was sold out within hours. Watching the Levi’s challenge is worth while. It gives you a clear idea of what direction denim is taking as a fashion item. Most of the contestants’ designs are very inspiring too.
On top of that , the vintage denim market has become profitable again - vintage Levi’s pants can worth a fortune. Premiers vintage clothing stores like “What Comes around, Goes Around” in New York City sells a huge variety of vintage Levi’s pants with prices going from US$ 500,00 up to US$ 1,400 (TBC), proving that the brand still appealing to the consumer and a has a strong brand DNA. For Fall 2008, Levi's Blue and Levi's Vintage Clothing — the brand's premium lines that represent its fastest-growing category dove into the firm's archives to resurrect authentic styles for denim and no denim apparel. Skinny jeans, higher waistlines and jeans with pleated fronts and slightly tapered legs are expected to fill wardrobes next Fall. Meanwhile, Seventies-inspired wide-leg and flared jeans in bright colors or vintage washes were also making a statement for Fall as well. The Levi’s Strauss president for Europe has noted that, "Premium lines are examples of how experience and creativity in denim are the new luxury".
During the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week in New York last February, European companies like G-Star has presented a collection full of classic pieces all in denim - trench-coats, corsets, dress jackets, suits, and blazers. However, these pieces received a very fashion forward approach, proposing a new direction to the company’s famous raw denim fabric. With denim as the primary focus, the Amsterdam-based luxury jeans company also showed that denim is a versatile fabric that can be manipulated to show different proportions and volumes. Everything looks great in denim, taking the famous fabric to the next level – high-tech treatments techniques were incorporated in the collection this season. In addition, unique combinations between raw denim and elegant fabrics such as fine alpaca wool and delicate silk brought up freshness to the collection. The pieces have a perfect fit as well as modern design approach to them – use of coated fabrics and rubberized exaggerated details. The color palette is dark navy, black; white and grey, offset with slight shades of raw denim. G-Star put together volume with the correct fit, creating an interesting silhouette that is both edgy and avant-garde. A silhouette for the traditional hoodie that was introduced – it is shaped like an astronaut’s helmet, covering the head and the neckline. As presented by another denim brands, the suit jacket was redesigned and it will be a hip piece for next season.
Another European company with wide penetration in the American market and with great recognition by the consumer is Diesel. The Italian company likes to find its inspiration in everyday life. For this season, the brand brings colors, cuts and shapes together in unexpected mixes. Designed by the Diesel Creative Team, headed by its creative director Wilbert Das, the collection plays with color, volume, silhouette and texture. All this, while remaining perfectly wearable in different situations. The brand used light faded denim, and added special treatments to grey and black denim. Lycra was incorporated in the fabric allowing the company to come up with engineered pieces – impressive cut outs! The silhouette is fitted and the body is both visible and concealed, transforming fabrics usually associated with jogging/casual into smart - fashion-forward products. The patch-work was incorporated on Diesel’s latest collection presented at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week in New York City last February. Oversize pieces are having a come back too this season. Diesel creative director has noted, “ Oversized is one of the watch works of this collection; oversized soft shoulders add verve to an active and sporty lifestyle; oversized pockets to created a new “ inverted trapeze” silhouette; big t-shirts with abstract graphics are enriched with oversized and over painted studs as well as translucent sequins. A sleeveless denim jumpsuit features dramatic oversized zips.” The brand also used Swarovski crystals as rivets, giving a unique look to its pieces. Companies like Diesel are taking their denim business to another level, creating a higher-end line. The Diesel Black Gold collection will be retailed for 25 percent higher than its main line. “The idea was to offer the same raw sexiness of Diesel with a nod toward the Eighties power-dressing and uniforms”, said creative director Wilbert Das.
The L.A. premium denim brand, Rock & Republic sent down the runway 65 looks, but only six included the jeans that made the company famous. Rock & Republic defines itself as an edgy and progressive label - inspired by Rock & Roll, the brand emphasized modern silhouettes and a sleek fit. For this season the creative director Michael Ball was inspired by film noir while incorporating a contemporary edge. This new direction adapted by the company confirms that denim brands are taking a different step in order to reach a wider range of consumers – become the “global casual brands of the future." The same happened to the Brazilian brand Iodice. Showing in New York for the first time, and recognized for its denim line as well, the company presented a collection which was a perfect synthesis of chic New York. There was not a single denim piece at the show though. The fashion approach adopted by Iodice shows that brands are diversifying their lines to different segments.
In conclusion, the denim trends are getting much more sophisticated season after season – especially in the upcoming one. Companies are investing money and time in their R&D departments, developing new treatments and techniques that are unique – denim has never looked so good. The denim market has been going through huge changes too, up scaling the collections and offering a better variety to the consumer. In such competitive market companies will do anything to grab consumer’s attention, and consequently boost sales. As a matter of fact, these exquisite finishing processes will be the big trend for the next season – targeting customers looking for one-of-kind products. Generally speaking, high end denim brands believe that the right path to take is to upgrade denim, giving to the classic fabric a sort of “couture” status. Style and fit will be other important key elements for the next season – less is more, and fit is everything. For Spring and Fall 2008, having a piece with perfect fit or one that is not used to being made by denim will be key. Pieces such as a cocktail dress, a suit or a trench coat will make you stand out in the crowd, and definitely, will be a big hit next season. In my opinion, consumers should shop the market first, and then make a decision of what to buy. How much you are willing to spend is another important decision-making factor. Consumers willing to invest a good amount of money in a good pair of jeans must make sure that are investing in something wearable all year long. even though the piece will look unique. Dress it up! Denim it up!
